Napa Valley: Of milkshakes, pars and pinot noirs
In California's Napa Valley, north across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco, ask anyone you meet a simple question such as, "Where do you recommend we try for dinner?" and the answer typically requires a notebook and pencil, for the litany of must-try restaurants is long and compelling.
In Yountville, for example, The French Laundry -- often awarded by culinary magazines the designation as best restaurant in the United States -- is just one of three you'll be told you have to visit. Chef Thomas Keller's second Yountville eatery, Bouchon, is a block away; and the celebrated chef's newest sensation in the small town is Ad Hoc, where Wednesday's fried chicken night (coated in a buttermilk/onion/garlic batter, fried in peanut oil, garnished with thyme and rosemary) has spawned a small legion of devotees.
For lunch, one of the best blue cheeseburgers I've ever had was found at Taylor's Automatic Refresher in Napa. This trendy burger stand doesn't skimp on the portion of blue cheese on the beef, and the garlic fries were so heavily coated that they were bright green with fresh and tasty garlic. We could smell them being delivered from half a restaurant away. Saving the best for last, we ordered a double dark chocolate shake that was so dark and creamy that even a serious chocoholic like my wife could only say, "Ohhhhhh ... that's good."
Ask the same question, "Which wineries shall we visit?" and the list is far longer, for of course the entire valley -- and neighboring Sonoma as well -- is renowned for producing our nation's finest wines.
On the other hand, if you make that query of golf courses, there's little disagreement: Sonoma Golf Club is far and away the consensus best course in the region. Unfortunately, it's private, and there are few compelling nearby public choices. As one might expect, golf takes a back seat to vineyards in this wine-loving region, and rightfully so.
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| Sonoma Golf Club |
With that as your entrée, one of the classic golf experiences in California awaits. Set amid giant oak trees and subtly rolling meadows, Sonoma Golf Club opened in 1928 to rave reviews, and over the years it has maintained its reputation as among the finest courses in the land. No less an authority than Sam Snead remarked once that it was his favorite course, a reaction most players have when they complete their round here. Today, Sonoma Golf Club plays host to the Champions Tour's Charles Schwab Cup Championship (Oct. 30-Nov. 2; Jim Thorpe defending).
Of the daily fee courses that are in the vicinity, StoneTree Golf Club ($85-$120, 25 minutes from Napa) seems to be most popular. A design collaboration of Johnny Miller, Sandy Tatum, Jim Summers and Fred Bliss, StoneTree dishes up pleasing views and a strong round of golf. Although it tops out at just more than 6,700 yards, most players will have all they can handle from the 6,354-yard black tees.
There's also something to be said for playing nine holes at unassuming Vintner's Golf Club ($25-$35) in Yountville, and getting back to the business of wine tasting that much faster. And to that end, a stream of cars flows up and down Highway 29 through the towns of Napa, Yountville, Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga, a 25-mile stretch of blacktop lined with more wineries than one could possibly stop at during one visit.
The entry signs along the highway read like a roster of old friends -- Mondavi, Domaine Chandon, St. Supery, Heitz -- and many friends yet to be made. Side roads snake off to the left and right, leading to more wineries -- Honig, Trefethen, Clos Pegasus, Duckhorn. And on the Silverado Trail, which parallels Highway 29, even more vineyards and wineries are found -- Chimney Rock, Stag's Leap, Clos du Val and many more.
One of the best wineries is found at St. Supery, where a fascinating tour educates visitors about the entire winemaking process, and a bustling tasting room allows for generous sampling, including their excellent sauvignon blancs. Too dang bad for the designated driver, eh?
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| Solage |
Located in the town of Calistoga, Solage is an eco-friendly, dog-loving, spa- and fitness-oriented retreat built in a series of individual luxury studios. And while the rooms are comfortable (with individual beds and bowls for our hounds), the main attractions are the spa and the delightful restaurant, Solbar.
The spa offers the opportunity to soak in Calistoga's famed mineral waters or, as my wife and I did, indulge in a signature couples Mudslide. An hour-long variation on the area's historic mud bath treatments, our personal mud chef mixed a potion of hot mud and healing oils for us, then closed us off in a heated room to smear the concoction over each other's bodies. This was followed by a soak in a mineral bath and 20 minutes in a gravity free chair designed by NASA. I came out feeling smooth and relaxed all over ... and all kinds of Northern California hip.
Later that evening, we enjoyed a wine-and-dine experience at Solbar, highlighted by small production local wines and locally grown produce. What stands out in my mind even now is the chilled corn soup appetizer with avocado slices and the peach cole slaw that was served with my short rib lasagna. I am not sure I'd ever have paired peaches with cole slaw, but the sweet, crunchy combination was outstanding. Adding a glass of crisp Honig sauvignon blanc to the course makes for an even greater treat.
After a few days in Wine Country, I started feeling like a local myself, so when a newcomer approached and asked me, "Where do you suggest we try for dinner," I knew right off how to respond: "Chocolate milkshake or peach cole slaw?"
