Scotland's Durness a most memorable links course

Some golf courses are played because of their history, or the architects that designed them; others are played for the fame they have earned and still more for the level of challenge they present. Durness Golf Club fits none of these categories and there are few that travel to the northernmost tip of Scotland to play this seemingly modest layout. But for those that do, a very special golfing discovery awaits.

There are golfers who travel the globe, "collecting golf trophies," attempting to play only the world's top ranked layouts -- they will have little interest in Durness -- pity because they will be missing a real treat.

It appears on no rankings list, it has no history to speak of, no famous architect designed it and it has only nine holes -- though two sets of tees qualify it as an 18-hole layout. Durness is also short, measuring only 5,555 yards for the full 18 holes. And another thing, the course closes each year for the lambing season, usually between mid-April and mid-May!

Yet this is a true gem of a layout, containing more of the essence of the game than will be found on most others. It is set amidst some of the most spectacular scenery to be found anywhere and the unique golfing experience Durness offers is like no other. It may not be a course for the trophy collector, but for those with a genuine love of the game and the glorious scenery that is the Scottish Highlands, it shouldn't be missed.

Only opened in 1988, a trio of local amateur golf enthusiasts designed the course. Blessed with a spectacular piece of coastline to work with, they have produced a layout that would be the envy of Old Tom Morris, James Braid or any other one of golf's great architects.

For the pessimists who doubt an exhilarating, variety packed, 18-hole round, is possible on a layout with only 9 greens, Durness will quickly prove them wrong -- the clever positioning of the second set of tees makes this a track with variety in abundance and it's there from start to finish.

This is far from being an easy course and the constantly changing challenges present a stern enough examination of golf to test even the low handicapper.

Durness is first and foremost a links course and presents an admirable array of links defenses, not the least of which is the incessant wind that blows in from the Atlantic. Remember, this is the most northerly course on mainland Britain and the wind blows here like nowhere else.

The opening hole (the first/10th) starts gently enough with a simple tee shot as you are eased into what is for most, a tricky round. The deviousness becomes apparent as you take the second shot to an elevated green that literally towers above, the tip of the flag barely visible.

From the second tee, the highest point on the course, the stunning beauty that is Durness, hits you from every side and everyone is forgiven for taking a few minutes to stand in awe of Mother Nature's handiwork -- it's breathtaking in every direction.

But there is a lot more golf to be played and many more chances along the way to savor the gorgeous surroundings.

Two sets of tees for each green allows golfers to create a unique 18 holes. (Provided to GolfWeb)

The sixth/15th is the only par 5 on the course and maybe the most difficult. It's a scary dogleg right that skirts an inlet of water. It's a chance for the brave to use the driver off the tee and confront indecision on the second shot -- be courageous and take the short-cut across the water for a possible eagle, or take the conservative long way round?

This is a course where most are unlikely to end up with the same ball they started with and this may be as good a place as any to lose one more.

The most memorable hole, the ninth/18th is one guaranteed to stay in your mind for years to come. Played on the first circuit, it’s a modest 108 yards -- the second time around the hole is stretched to 155 yards. No matter what the distance, this is a hole to make even the most talented player weak at the knees.

The tee shot has to be played across a gaping gorge with the crashing Atlantic below, blowing a constant spray, just as a small reminder that any errant shot is gone forever -- There may be no more dramatic close to a round of golf, but that's the way things are at Durness -- very special.

And for the grand finale to a day filled with unexpected pleasures, linger for an hour in one of the most charming and friendliest little clubhouses to be found in Scotland. With a glass or two under your belt, it's the perfect way to cap off a day you will be remembering for years to come. Just feel sorry for those trophy collectors who miss the best little golf club in Scotland.

For suggestions on how to include a few Highland gems in your Scottish golf trip click here.

© 2004 David Brice / Golf International Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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